In Episode 06 of Snow Country Stories Japan, I had the privilege of visiting Shiga Kogen Brewery – one of the snow country’s most recognisable, popular and awarded breweries. Established in 2004 by the founder and master brewer, Sato Eigo, Shiga Kogen Brewery grew out of his family’s much older Tamamura Honten – a sake brewery dating back more than 200 years – with a vision to produce beers with character and that reflected the local area. Today it is known for its ales, and an enticing range seasonal varieties and barrel-aged beers that offer a notably different drinking experience.
Shiga Kogen Brewery & The Artistry of Barrel-Aged Beer
I was fortunate enough to arrange a chat with Todoroki Mai, a member of the Shiga Kogen Brewery team. Mai is great fun to spend time with and we discussed a lot including the beers they are producing with a particular focus on their celebrated barrel-aged series named ‘Yamabushi’. Inspired by the Belgian tradition of Trappist beers brewed by monks, Shiga Kogen’s ‘Yamabushi’ series of beers are aged in barrels in which they undergo additional fermentation using wild yeast. In doing so, sugars that remain in the beer are converted to alcohol and reducing the overall sweetness, producing stronger and drier beer which is often more akin to wine in taste. The use of wild yeast introduces an element of the unknown as they create unique and unpredictable flavours, while further taste is extracted from the barrel itself. Using wine, cognac and other barrels, Shiga Kogen’s Yamabushi beers have a wide spectrum in terms of taste and having now tried a number of them, they stand out as some of the most unique, balanced and drinkable beers I’ve had in Japan. Pleas note, all images used on this page are the property of Shiga Kogen Brewery and cannot be used without their written permission.
The word ‘yamabushi’ translates as ‘mountain ascetic’ or ‘mountain hermit’; these are practitioners of the many forms of ‘Shugendo’ faith systems who undertake spiritual training and test in the wild in places such as mountains and forests. Themselves considered wild, mysterious and unpredictable, the Shiga Kogen Brewery team found the name appropriate for the unique flavours they were creating while also paying homage to the origins of barrel-aged beer by Trappist monks in Belgium, the Netherlands and some other European countries.
The brewery produces a range of other beers including seasonal varieties while using locally-grown hops, rice, fruit and other ingredients along with water sourced from nearby Shiga Kogen – Japan’s largest and highest ski resort, from which the brewery takes its name. Recognised as Japan’s top brewer over multiple years, Shiga Kogen Brewery has plenty of ambition while wanting to remain true to its founding vision to produce good beer, that reflected the local character and that they wanted to drink themselves.
I’d like to say a very big thank you to Mai, Sato-san and all the brewery team for agreeing to the interview and welcoming me in. Make sure to look up their website and follow them on Instagram and next time you’re in Japan or already here, I hope it has you reaching for one of their tremendous beers. I hope you enjoy!
You can find more information at:
Shiga Kogen Brewery website:
Shiga Kogen Brewery Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/egobrewer/
Shiga Kogen Mountain Resort:
https://shigakogen-ski.or.jp/english/
Thanks for listening and I hope you enjoy!